Nursing A Sick Rat

By Catherine Smith

We all hope it doesn't happen, but no matter how much of a good rat owner you are, there will be a time when you find yourself nursing a sick rat.

Quarantine?

The first decision to make is whether you are going to move your sick rat into another cage. If he is not too sick and the disease is not contagious, it is best to leave them in with their companions. It will be less stressful and your rat will feel better being around his friends.

If your rat is very ill, or has a contagious disease, you should move him into a separate cage. This way he will not spread the illness and he will also have peace and quiet, in a space where he can recuperate.

Bedding

Make sure the cage is extra comfy for your rat. Use old jumpers, or towels for bedding, so that your rat can snuggle up.

If your rat has a respiratory disease he may get rather cold, so make sure you take steps to keep him warm. Put a heating pad under the cage, covered by a towel. Do not put it inside the cage, or your rat will chew the wires. You can also get a microwaveable heat pad. Keep the pad over one side of the cage, so that your rat can move away if he gets too hot.

Make sure you change the bedding in your rats' cage frequently. If it gets dirty your rat's illness could get worse. Clean the cage with a germicidal cleaner, such as Parvasol, a mild bleach solution.

Drape a towel over one half of the cage, so that your rat can retreat to a dark place to hide. Make sure that your rat doesn't get too hot and that he stays hydrated.

Remember your rat may not be able to clean himself when he is sick. Use a damp cloth to clean off any urine or waste. Whatever you do don't rinse him under the tap. It will be too stressful. Make sure to dry him thoroughly and gently with a towel.

Food

Your rat may not be eating much, or may not be able to eat the same foods when he is ill. Try soft foods such as avocado, thinly spread peanut butter, eggs, baby food and bananas.

Vanilla mixed with banana will be really tasty.

You may need to hand feed your rat. Use a syringe if he will not eat. 3cc, 6cc or 12cc are best.

Give your rat a pea sized blob of a vitamin supplement such as Nutrigel, along with his other food.

You may also need to give water by hand. Mix the water with a teaspoon of sugar and syringe feed it to your rat..

Use a damp tissue to gently clean any food off your rat after each meal.

You can also use a syringe to administer your rat's medication, or if he is eating you can add the meds to his favourite liquid food (yoghurt or Soya milk).

If your rat is very ill, you may need to administer injectable drugs. Gently pinch the skin on the scruff of your ratties neck and slide the needle under the skin. Massage the area before you do this. If possible, try not to get antibiotics in pill form, as they are hard to administer.

Check that your rat is not dehydrated by gently pulling up your rats skin and then releasing. It should ping back straight away. If it takes time, your rat is not getting enough water and you should give it water by syringe.

Keep a careful eye on your rat and if his condition worsens seek advice from your vet

http://www.RatsRatsRats.com
Catherine Smith 2007
Check out my website for everything you've ever wanted to know about pet rats. From training to toys, housing to health. You can even go shopping for your ratty friend.

The Different Types of Turtles

By Steven Magill

There are hundreds of different types of turtles. This article aims to give you a brief overview of the different types of turtles. Here is a short list of some of the types of turtle:

The Pig Nosed Turtle: This type has been called the Australasian Pig-nose turtle, the pitted shelled turtle, the plateless turtle and even the fly river turtle. This kind is soft shelled and is usually found in freshwater rivers, lagoons and streams in Australia's Northern Territory and in New Guinea.

The Green Sea Turtle: This family of turtle is rather large and can be found in most subtropical and tropical areas in the world. It has two very distinct populations in the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean. This is an endangered species and it is illegal to harm, kill or collect them.

The Alligator Snapping Turtle: This is the biggest freshwater turtle on the continent of North America. It is larger than but not quite as aggressive as the common snapping turtle. These turtles are often found in the Missouri River and in South Carolina and the northern areas of Florida. This kind of turtle can stay under water for almost an hour.

The Mesoamerican River Turtle: sometimes this type of turtle is called the hickatee or the tortuga-blaca. This turtle is nocturnal and lives in the lakes and rivers of Central America. Like many other species of turtles, this species is endangered. These turtles can get as big as twenty five inches and can weigh up to forty four pounds.

The Leatherback Turtle: Of all of the types of turtle, this turtle is the largest of them all. The leatherback is a sea turtle and is the only species of turtle that does not have a hard shell. Instead it only has flesh and skin. This kind can be found all over the world.

The Red Eared Slider Turtle: This is known as a semi-aquatic turtle and is usually found in the southern area of the United States, particularly in the Mississippi River. Of course, because it makes a very popular pet, it can be found in pet stores all over the world.

The Common Musk Turtle: This type has also been called The Stinkpot. It got its name because it is able to release a musky and foul odor to dissuade any predators that might think of hunting it. These turtles are found in the Eastern United States and Southeastern Canada.

The Big Headed Turtle: This is one of the types of turtles that is usually found in Vietnam, Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and China. It's head is extremely large and it has been known to climb the trees that are near the rivers and streams where it lives It has also been known to arc its tail (like a scorpion) and is one of the different types of turtles that is unable to pull its head into its shell.

Copyright (c) 2008 Steven Magill

Children And Snakes

By Brook Durant

If you've ever been to your local pet store then no doubt you've seen a snake or two for sale. Usually they are unhealthy, overly expensive, and not well cared for. Which would make most of us walk away without a second glance, but kids are different. They see a snake and they want the snake. I speak from experience having at one time been "that" kid. Since then I've learned a great deal about snakes in general, especially relating to keeping them as pets.

One common denominator of children and snakes is that they rarely do well together. At least not if you leave the snake in the care of the child. Snakes (and most other reptiles) are entirely unlike any other animal. Their care requirements are exacting, and there's very little margin of error when dealing with them. This isn't to say that children can't have snakes as pets. In fact I highly encourage it, but there are some realities you should consider.

1) You as the parent or guardian will likely become the primary caretaker of the snake. Which isn't at all bad, but let's face it. Kids are impulsive and the snake they just have to have or "I'll die!!!" probably will be yesterdays news before today is done. Not literally, but you get the idea. Just be aware that when most kids promise to always take care of it... well consider that just like when they promise to eat their vegetables, or do their homework. Their intentions are great but then the reality sets in.

2) Snakes are expensive. The initial purchase for something like a Ball Python will be relatively cheap (around $40-$100) but then you have everything else.

a) Tank - These can easily run over $150.00 but if you're willing to spend some time learning you can build your own from a plastic Tub for about $8.00

b) Essentials - These are the things you must have for the snake to prosper:

- Heating Pads: Under the tank heater will cost about $20-$35.00 depending on size and where you get it. There is also FlexWatt heat tape which is a little less expensive, but more labor intensive.

- Hides: Just a place for the snake to "hide" from everything. You can buy them at the pet store for a few dollars each or take an old butter tub, cut a hole in the side the snake can fit through and use that. Not a huge expense but the little things add up.

- Thermometer/Hygrometer combo: You want a digital one of these with probes. Those will run you around $12 to $15 for an Accu-rite from Wal-Mart. The cheap stick on the side of the tank types do NOT work. Remember I said before their husbandry requirements are exact? This is an example. To low heat can lead to respiratory infection, poor eating, and stress. To low humidty can lead to poor and incomplete sheds. So you will need to invest in a good thermometer/hygrometer setup.

- Water bowl: Needs to be large enough the snake won't tip it over. If you buy at the pet store it'll cost you more than it is worth. Around $15.00 (give or take)

- Substrate: A bag of cypress mulch will cost about $10 to $20. A better option is to use old newspapers for the substrate. I never pay for it because I get old newspapers from restaurants. Avoid glossy and colored prints as these can be toxic to the snake.

- Thermostat: Here we come back to the reality of how exacting conditions must be for snakes. The temperatures need to be maintained at very precise levels. That is where a thermostat comes in. To be clear these aren't the $20.00 wall mount units you get from Wal-Mart. These are specially made for reptiles and they allow you to control your under the tank heaters. Expect to pay upwards of $100.00 for one of these.

- Electricity: Obviously keeping a heating pad running 24/7 which you will have to do will increase your electric bill to some extent.

- Food: They need to eat. Expect to spend about $8 to $25 per month on food per snake. A lot will depend on how large the snake is as to what it should be eating. Don't forget to calculate travel into the food expense.

So now that snake that cost $40.00 is costing signficantly more. Before you even get out the door you're looking at another $200.00 in supplies alone. Not to mention the ongoing cost of upkeep on a daily basis. We didn't even consider what would happen if trip to the vet became necessary. Vets that specialize in reptiles have one thing in common with doctors who specialize in heart issues. They both charge significantly more than "regular" vets because of their specialization.

3) Kids are rough. You can't leave a child and a snake alone. Some people will tell you it is to protect the kid, but in 99.999999% of all cases the reason is to protect the snake from the kid.

4) Kids are quick. Snakes don't like quick. They feel threatened by it. They'll try to get away and barring that lash out at things they feel threatened by. Having experienced my share of snake bites over the years I can tell you that getting bit by a snake is something most adults will never forget. Imagine a kid getting bit because the snake felt like it had to defend itself.

All of this is not to discourage you from getting a snake for your kid. In fact I highly encourage you doing just that as they make wonderful pets. You as the parent/guardian just need to be aware that snakes are unlike any common pet most people have and they take dedication and responsibility that MOST children simply do not have.